Fifteen Kilograms of Imperfect Lemons

• 6 pounds (2.75 kg) whole beef brisket (see note)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil
• 2 pounds yellow onions (1 kg; about 5 medium), sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 1 pound carrots (450 g; about 6 medium), cut into large dice
• 1/2 pound celery (225 g; about 4 large ribs), cut into large dice
• 6 medium cloves garlic
• 1 cup (240 ml) dry red wine
• 1 (14-ounce; 400 g) can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand, with the juices
• 1/3 cup (80 ml) ketchup
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 2 bay leaves

Season brisket all over with salt and pepper. Set a large stainless steel roasting pan over 2 burners set to medium-high heat, add oil, and heat until shimmering. Add brisket and brown on both sides, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer brisket to a work surface. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic to roasting pan and cook, stirring, until just starting to brown in spots, about 6 minutes; season with salt. Add wine and bring to a simmer while scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan. Stir in tomatoes and ketchup and return brisket to roasting pan, nestling it among vegetables.

Add thyme and bay leaves to roasting pan and cover well with foil. Set oven to 300°F (150°C) and cook brisket on middle rack until fork-tender, 3 to 4 hours.